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Arrival at Tamatave — Visit to the Governor — Ludicrous Appearance of Procession — The Fort of Thomasina — Saluting Flag of Radama — Malagasy “God save the King” — Andriamandroso — Chief Judge’s House — Entertainment given to the Mission — Presents from the Governor.

Tuesday, \hth July, 1862.—At daylight Madagascar was visible from the deck, and as soon as the sun was well up, the coast lay before us stretching into the distance on either side; the mountains in the back-ground being partly concealed by mists and clouds. By the time we anchored in the roadstead, at 11.45, everything was bright, and clear, and glittering under the blaze of a tropical sun. Although we had been prejudiced against Tamatave, the first impressions were decidedly favourable. We looked upon a line of white sand, backed by grassy hillocks and groves of fine trees with deep cool shadows; from behind the trees peeped the top of the Fort, over which floated Radama’s white flag; this, with the town running out into the sea upon a narrow point of land, combined - to form a perfect picture. Round the point, half a mile off, stretched a coral reef, on the outer ridge of which lay the skeletons of two luckless “ bullockers,”—i.e. coasting vessels employed in the exportation of cattle,—against the sides of which the spray of the outside rollers leaped as high as their ancient masts. These soon after afforded excellent marks for the 10-inch shells of the “Gorgon.” Lieutenant Keppel, R.N. pulled ashore as soon as the anchor was down, and informed the Governor of our arrival. This information elicited a salute of twenty-one guns, the tiny cracks of which seemed scarcely to be equal to those of musketry. They were speedily silenced by the roar of the “ Gorgon’s ” cannon in reply. A boat now came off from the shore with some of the native officers dressed in semi-European costume ; they mounted to the quarterdeck amidst the barely concealed laughter of the officers, and after introducing themselves to the General and the rest of the party, begged for a list of our names and titles, which was readily afforded.

We now learnt that the “ Hermione ” (a French fifty-gun frigate, lying two miles off near the Isle des Prunes) had brought Commodore Dupré and a large staff, as the French representative at the coronation, and that he had left Tamatave that same morning for Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar.

We also heard that our newly appointed Consul, Mr. Packenham, had not yet started for the capital, but was still at Tamatave; that he had wished to hoist his flag here, but that the Governor would not allow him to do so without orders from Radama; and that our Consul had taken offence, and refused to meet the Governor at all. At three p.m. the Bishop and I went on shore, and Captain Anson accompanied Captain Wilson on board the “ Hermione.” I then visited Mr. and Mrs. Packenham, who were living in a small, but not uncomfortable house.

The people crowded down to the boats when we landed. They seemed good-natured and friendly disposed towards us.

Most of them were dressed in the common lamba, which is a piece of stuff the size of half an ordinary sheet, wrapped round both shoulders, and the longer end again thrown over one shoulder, so that both arms are imprisoned, and as the loose end is very apt to fall off, one hand is continually engaged in keeping it on. The lamba is made of all kinds of material. The poorer people use Rabanne cloth, made from the bark of the Rofia palm. Those who can get it prefer European cotton. Lambas of various striped patterns are woven by the Hovas in Imerina, both of cotton and silk.

Tamatave is a large village, and will no doubt soon become a place of importance. There are about five thousand inhabitants. The village itself consists of two parallel, but rather straggling streets, running north and south. Being built on a point it has the sea on both sides of it, and the main part of the village lies in a hollow between two sand-banks. The west sand-bank entirely hides the sea from the village, and is covered with trees, conspicuous amongst which is the Pandanus, the wild Vacoa, which grows to a great size. The eastern bank is not planted, but here the best houses in the place are built, surrounded with large enclosures of bamboos, and interspersed with a few cocoa-nut trees. On leaving the Consul, I joined the Bishop and Captain Anson, and found that an escort of soldiers and a band of music, with chairs and bearers, had been sent down to take us to the Fort. We mounted our chairs, and the band in front marched off, blowing away at some rather battered European brass instruments, a saxhorn, a cornet, a trombone, a clarionet or two, and several drums.

Then followed the soldiers in double ranks, dressed in white trousers and blouses. They carried old Tower flint muskets and bayonets, not particularly clean. Their cartouches and belts were falling to pieces ; many of them were kept together by pieces of string, and evidently had not been pipeclayed for the last twenty years. After the soldiers, of whom there might have been some twenty-five or thirty, walked the officers, who were still more incongruously dressed. They displayed every style of European costume, but in so ragged a form that they looked as if they had come from Donnybrook fair. Very few had shoes, and fewer still stockings, and those who had these latter allowed them to drop over the heels of their low boots. After these magnates came our party in chairs, or, as the natives call them, Jilanzans. Some were armchairs fastened to poles, others were merely seats made of a piece of ox-hide, stretched between two poles. Seated in these, the Bishop, Anson, and I, with our interpreter Andronisa, proceeded in solemn state to the Fort. The Fort lies about half a mile to the north of the town.

Thomasina, the fort of Tamatave

After the last guard-room, we passed another archway under the rampart, and then entered the courtyard of the Fort; here the troops were drawn up in parade order, forming three sides of a large square round the flag-staff; the Governor and his staff were in front of his house, a long, low, two-storied building, with verandah painted red. The band struck up “ Sidikin,” the Malagasy “ God save the King.” The troops presented arms to the flag, the Governor took off his hat, and we followed his example.

* This custom, as I afterwards learnt, is not followed at the capital, but only in the coast fortresses and military posts, where there are but few soldiers.

Directly the music ceased, the Governor, staff-officers, &c., all salaamed to the flag, exclaiming, “ Veloome, Yelo-o-o-o .... me Tsara Tompk ....ay!!” which means, “Hail, O good king!” The band then struck up “The British Grenadiers,” and the soldiers again presented arms, whilst we advanced to meet the Governor, who came towards us with outstretched hands. He was dressed in striped pyjamas, slippers, yellow waistcoat, and a long scarlet coat reaching nearly to his heels, and wore two large bullion epaulettes. He shook hands with us all round, then led us into the house, and upstairs to his reception room, where there was a long table with champagne and glasses. We sat down, and, through the interpreter, made the usual common-place compliments. The Governor then ordered the wine to he opened, and as soon as our glasses were filled, proposed the health of Radama and Victoria. The signal was given to the hand outside, who played the national airs of both countries, and the troops again presented arms. In fact, the wretched troops seemed to be kept on parade all day long, presenting arms on the slightest occasion. After arranging with the Governor about the landing and ceremonial the next day, we took leave, and were escorted down to the beach by the band and soldiers as usual. We returned on board ship in time for Captain Wilson’s dinner, and made arrangements for getting all our things on shore the next day.

Wednesday, 16iA July.—Occupied all the morning in getting the luggage ashore in the paddle-box boat, and storing it in the custom-house. At two o’clock a band and escort of soldiers, &c., with palanquins as the day before, came down to the beach, and the General and staff landed in the captain’s gig, being saluted as they left the “ Gorgon.” The procession was soon formed, Madagascar etiquette placing the highest ranks last in the order of march. We then proceeded to the house of the Chief Judge Pilibert, where in front of the house, in a large courtyard shaded by lofty trees, sat the Governor in gala dress; a small French cocked hat jauntily stuck upon the side of his head, scarlet coat with long swallow-tails, and gold frogs, blue velvet trousers embroidered with gold down the seams, a field-officer’s sword, scabbard, and epaulettes. Andriamandroso is the imposing name of this dignitary. A large escort of soldiers was drawn up in line, and went through the customary ceremonies. The Governor then advanced and shook hands with us all, and led the General into the house, which he proposed giving us to live in whilst we were at Tamatave. As the General, however, preferred living on board, only Anson and I took possession of the house, storing our cases all round the room, which was a fine large one papered with French paper representing the battles of the Crimea. The Governor made it over to us in a long speech, and after a great deal of complimentary language on both sides, we again mounted our palanquins, and went up to the Fort, where all the old ceremonies were gone through, with which the visit concluded.

Thursday, July 17th.—Went ashore with Anson, and took up our quarters in the Chief Judge’s house. Andronisa set out to engage Marmites, as the bearers are called, to take us up to the capital. The French are reported to have taken more than six hundred of them. Caldwell’s party, who are about to start with the presents for the King, require two hundred, and we shall want four hundred, which are very difficult to obtain. Last year the price for each Marmite was $2, this year they have raised their price to $3-50, which makes a great difference in the expenses of the journey. The Chief Judge’s house where we now live is decidedly one of the best in Tamatave. It consists of one large room about fifty feet long, the timber of the roof is palm-tree lashed with rofia— the thatch is very neatly put on, and is formed of ravenale leaves. The floor is raised some three feet from the ground, which here is pure sand. So far it is the same as the other houses, but inside there is an attempt at European ornamentation, as it is floored and papered; the wind, however, comes through the boards in a manner that secures thorough ventilation. Here we live, Anson slinging his cot from the cross-beam, and I making use of the General’s palanquin for a bed. Our staff of servants consists of a Tranquebar cook, who is always called “ cook,” and apparently never had any other name; Peter Botte, a Malagasy naturalized British subject, he is the General’s personal attendant ; David, a Betsimasaraka, speaking both Creole and Malagasy; Médine, my man, an awful rascal; and Jean, a little constable, who is Anson’s retainer; he had been an escaped Sakalava slave. Francine, the assistant cook, a first-rate young fellow, makes up the number. We have brought plenty of preserved soups, hams, and potted meats, not to mention wine, beer, and other drinkables ; and as turkeys are to be bought four for a dollar, we shall not want for eating. Arranging, and unpacking, and repacking, and stowing, have occupied the greater part of this day. In the evening, Anson and I strolled through the town, amusing ourselves with the novelty of all we saw.

Group of Betsimisaraka

Friday, 18th. - Up soon after daylight and out shooting, I also made two or three sketches. The views from the tops of the sand-hills, that stretch along the shore, are beautiful in the extreme ; in front a wide plain, green and fertile, sprinkled here and there with clumps of low trees; beyond, a gently undulating country, covered with ravenale and large timber; and in the distance mountains of every shade and colour, growing fainter and fainter. We had the edge of our appetite for breakfast taken off by coming across the body of a man in a state of decomposition; he had been strangled, the rope was still round his neck, but whether murdered, or destroyed by his own hand, it was impossible to say. We afterwards told the authorities, but they appeared to think it no business of theirs. After breakfast a deputation from the Fort arrived with a present to our party of four bullocks, rice, sugar-cane, and fruit. After entertaining the chiefs who brought them, we received an invitation to dine with the Governor, for which purpose the General and Bishop, who were still on board ship, came on shore at two o’clock.